A Trip Down South and the 12th of July

Cork University Campus

Karl and I love traveling by train and had not yet ventured further south than Dublin.  So, we decided to take a trip to Cork and Killarney this past week.  We started our trip by taking the long journey down to Cork and stayed one night there.  We didn't do too much while in Cork, but made the most of our time - walked through the shops in the city centre, visited the English Market, saw an exhibition called the Sacred Modernist by Josef Albers at the Lewis Glucksman Gallery, and walked around the Cork University campus. 

Cork University Campus

From Cork, we took the train to Killarney to spend the next four days.  We booked a room at a bed and breakfast directly outside of the national park, and spent our time in Killarney taking various walks, exploring the park.  I highly recommend visiting Killarney National Park - it is filled with beautiful scenery and plenty of attractions to keep you busy.  In our time at the park, I think we probably walked about 40 miles by the time we visited Muckross Abbey, Muckross House and Gardens, Torc Falls, Dinis Cottage, Meeting of the Waters and Ross Castle. 

Muckross House

View from Torc Mountain

Climbing Torc Mountain

Torc Falls

As all good trips come to end, we took the long train ride home on the 11th, and got home in time to drop our bags at our flat and head to Karl's minister's house for dinner.  She offered to have us over for a meal and then take us around to some bonfires being lit for the celebration of the remembrance of the Battle of the Boyne in 1690.  Over the past few weeks, we have been watching the construction of various bonfire sites all over Belfast.  Some of the bonfires are small and are meant for kids, while others are absolutely humongous, reaching heights of 150 feet.  The bonfires are actually quite impressive structurally, you might even say they are a work of art.  But these works of art are quickly tainted by the addition of Irish tricolor flags, images of the Pope and the Virgin Mary, and derogatory words against Republicans and Nationalists. These items and images are added to the bonfire structures and are scorched when the fires go off around midnight.  While some might say the bonfires are good craic, I was quite saddened by parts of the experience.  I stood watching the flames flare, as hundreds of people stood around me getting drunk and trashing the neighborhood in which they live.

Following the night of the bonfires, the 12th of July is a day in which many Unionists and Loyalists gather to watch the band parades of the Orange Order.  Karl and I went out with some friends from Whitehouse to watch the parades on the Lisburn Rd.  We had a fun time watching the bands, eating burgers and chips and getting ice cream.  Although, it was hard to completely enjoy myself when I kept thinking about the underlying issues behind the band parades.  They are a celebration of a deeply contentious date and are celebrated by only one side of the community in Northern Ireland.  Now, I understand the desire to remember momentous occasions in history with joyful celebrations - each year I celebrate Easter, the 4th of July, Thanksgiving and Christmas.  And maybe I am reading too much into the 12th of July as an outsider to this country.  But with each step of a marcher, beat of a drum, blow on a whistle and cheer of the crowd, it seems that lines of division between Protestants and Catholics are being highlighted. 

The efforts of those people working towards peace and reconciliation in Northern Ireland are being setback each year as feelings of hatred, fear, hurt and sadness are stirred up during the bonfires and band parades.  As you read this, please say a prayer for the people of Northern Ireland, that peace may come and division may cease.

I took some photos at the bonfires and parades, but BBC did a better job in capturing the moments. In Pictures: Northern Ireland's 12 July